When night falls over Kasongan, workshops close their doors. Ceramics, batik artworks and woodcarvings are hidden inside. Streets smell like sweet corn and sugar cane. Women gather around a table. They take seats on plastic chairs and wait patiently. Two herbal medicine makers take orders, stir scented spices in coconut shells. Turmeric stains their hands yellow. They sell potions, dried herbs, duck eggs. Evening is the right time for healing, washing smog and worries of the day away.